The last night of Carnaval ended with a big bang--dancing until dawn, getting chased and kissed by hoards of Brasilian men, and having beer poured all over me. That is only a taste of what the biggest party in Brasil has been like.
The first night I arrived here in Salvador we went to Pelorinho, the historic district of Salvador with old colonial architecture and cobblestone pedestrian streets. Its also the most touristy part of town and the center for capoeira and other Bahia arts. The first night there were marching bands and dancing on the street, and I finally felt like I found some local culture. A woman took me and a friend aside to show us how to move our hips and dance and we danced all night. Funny as well, a friend back in Seattle had given me the contact information for Jonatas, a guy who could hook me up with capoeira lessons and an apartment if I needed. That first night in Pelorinho I was dancing with a silly dreadlocked guy who said his name was Lopez (whenever I say my name is Jennifer, all Central and South Americans immediately respond, 'oh, Jennifer Lopez') when he introduced me to his friend Jonatas. It turned out to be the same Jonatas I was to contact--small world!
The next night was the first night of Carnaval. Salvador is the ultimate street party--nearly two million people are dancing until dawn from January 31 to the 5th of February. I danced so much every night that my legs still feel like jelly.
On the second day of Carnaval I also went to a festival celebrating the goddess protectorate of fishermen, Yemanja. People dress in white and put flowers on boats to be sent out as an offering to the sea. There were loads of capoeira groups around and I even got to see some Candomble, a sort of traditional Brasilian voodoo. Practioners are possessed by the gods and dance orixas in the likeness of the gods.
And now, I am recovering in a penthouse apartment with a swimming pool on the roof with a bunch of other random travelers and a few Brasilians--no joke! I haven't really been roughing it during this trip! I'll try to find some non-incriminating photos between all the folks in the apartment and post them.
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Jen, you should be in South Africa in a couple of weeks, and Uncle Allan is concerned that you will miss Brazil terribly. He is therefore willing to pour beer all over you and kiss you. Let him know if you're interested. Better you than me! Aunt Linda
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